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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

 

 1.  Do you make holsters in a left hand version

 

All of our products are available in left hand configuration.

 

   

2.  Why does it take so long to have a holster made?

 

One of the most frequently asked questions are "Why does it take so long to have a
 holster made?" The answer is that the demand for our product has always exceeded
our ability to produce. 

 It doesn't take so long to actually make the holster; it’s the processing of the hundreds
of orders that are ahead of yours that keeps us behind.

 

   
3.  What can I do to maintain the appearance of my new leather?

Nothing much needs to be done other than an occasional waxing to help maintain
appearance. That applies to items with the smooth-out finish only!
Rough side out finishes should be left as is except for maybe an occasional wipe down
with a damp cloth. Waxing and polishing the rough-out finish only serves to
lessen  the gripping qualities of the rough-out surface of the holster.

You can ignore most of the advice put out on the various internet forums
suggesting applications for holsters that are better suited for a pair of boots,
or on a saddle. On holsters and belts of Seth's manufacture, do not use silicone,
oil, or any leather conditioning product that advertises itself as an aid to help soften leather.  Soft leather is for gloves!  :^)

 

   

4.  What are one-way snaps and how do they work?

 

One-way or directional snaps are used on most of our belt attachments as a means
to keep pressure exerted from the inside edge of the belt from inadvertently undoing the
snap.

Look inside the female snap and you will see a small tab of metal that appears to trap
the coil spring inside. That tab is the locking mechanism of the one-way snap.
When the snap is shut, the tab in the female cap will not allow the male
snap to lever itself through the coil spring at the point of the tab, thus releasing the snap.
The one-way snap can only be disengaged by outside pressure on the side of the
snap opposite from the side where the above mentioned tab is located. 

To work the snap, the side of the snap with the tab located inside the female cap,
must be engaged onto the male snap first by angling the female snap at that point to
engage it. Then to complete the closure, you roll the female snap over the male snap
till it clicks shut. Basically, the tab on the female snap will always be located on the
side of the snap where the belt will come into contact with it. All our IWB holster
loops are snapped towards the top of the holster, so you will generally roll the
snap from the bottom up.
Any confusion on this can be resolved by looking in the female cap to see
where the tab is located. That side of the snap always gets engaged onto
the male snap first.

If you don't engage and close the snaps properly, the snaps may appear to be closed,
but will pop open unexpectedly. If that happens, you can be sure that you are not
closing them properly. If this happens to you, you might want to read the above
description again just to make sure you fully understand the function of the
one-way snap. If all else fails, you can always call the shop for help @ 803-233-7822.

To help break in new snaps, please do as follows. A light smear of a lubricating wax on the
rim of the male snap will make the snap much easier to open and close.
Any good car wax will work. A light smear of machine oil on the male snap
will work to lubricate the snap as well. 

Until the leather loops get broke in, you might find it easier to pre-snap the loops
and physically string your belt through the closed loops as opposed to fighting
with the snaps. Our holster  loops are meant to fit snug on belts of our
manufacture and until the leather of the loops loosens up a bit, you
might find it hard to angle the female snap properly to engage the male snap.
Don't worry, time will make everything easier.

 

5.  My holster is too tight! One of the side effects of wet molding is a consolidation of the leather fibers,
which “shrinks” the holster. If the fit is too tight when holstering your firearm
the first time, don’t force it. If you do force the firearm into the holster, it may
be very difficult to remove.  nstead, follow these simple steps to break in your
new holster using a process called blocking: 

1. Place the unloaded firearm in the bag it arrived in, or cover it in 2-3 layers
of plastic kitchen wrap.  Do not cover the grip. 

2. Insert the bagged/wrapped firearm slowly into the  holster, gently twisting
it side-to-side to minimize tearing of the bag/wrap. 

3. Once the firearm is completely seated in the holster, twist it about 1/16”
in both directions 6-12 times.

4. Allow the bagged/wrapped firearm to sit in the holster overnight.

5. Remove the firearm from the holster and remove the bag/wrap from the firearm.

6. Insert the unloaded firearm into the holster, which should now be snug but not loose.
If it is still too tight, repeat the above steps until the holster is broken in to your satisfaction.